Cu Lai Cham
While the pandemic was unfolding, I found myself 'stranded' in Vietnam for an extended period. A situation that I now consider to be very fortunate, and I am so grateful to have had that experience. Being away from friends and family for an extended period was at times difficult, but I will always treasure the memories of spending time in lockdown in the quaint coastal village of An Bang, near the ancient town of Hoi An.
As the days, weeks, and months dragged on, great friendships were formed among both locals, and stranded foreigners throughout the village. Our group became known for humorously disregarding the 7 pm curfew on a regular basis; secretly gathering on the beach, we would delight in food, wine, and laughter whispered amongst us. As dusk fell, we would gaze at the stunning Cham Islands in the distance, promising that it would be our first adventure post covid lockdown.
After Quang Nam province reopened under strict Covid regulations, we set off on our eagerly anticipated trip to Hon Lao Island (Cham). Taking a ferry, we looked forward to a week filled with snorkeling, diving, and exploring the beauty of this outstanding island. We were aware that in case of another sudden lockdown imposed by the Vietnamese government (which was not uncommon), we might end up stranded on the island indefinitely. Nevertheless, we were fully prepared to embrace that risk.
We were down at Cua Dai harbour at 6 am sharp as the motor bikes are always loaded on the ferry first, and if your late, then your bike is not going with you.
Traveling from Hoi An to Cham Island usually takes about 45 minutes by ferry, and the ticket price for you and your motorbike is roughly $20. Alternatively, you have the option of taking a speedboat for approximately $70, cutting the travel time to about 30 minutes. I personally found the ferry journey quite enjoyable, especially since I could bring my own motorbike along.
The unique experience was enhanced by the crowded ferry that was overloaded with giant wedding arrangements, cages of live chickens, boxes of beer, and a boat full of produce and nattering Vietnamese. They were such fun, and a happy crowd to do the trip across with.
The success of your trip to Cham Island greatly depends on the weather and the sea. A sudden shift in conditions may cause delays in your journey back. I have been to Cham Island four times, and only once did I have to delay my return for several days due to unfavorable conditions. I certainly didn't mind spending a few extra days marooned on this idyllic island.
Only 18 km away from the charming town of Hoi An, the Cham Islands consist of 8 unspoiled small islands in the South China Sea, forming part of the Cu Lao Cham Marine Park, a UNESCO-recognized world Biosphere Reserve. Celebrated for their mesmerizing natural landscapes and clear blue waters.
The largest of these islands is Hon Lao (Pearl), which is the only inhabited island. It has 2 main villages, Bai Lang which has docking piers and is home to 2400 residents. The smaller, Bai Huong, is a fishing village and home to only 400. Bai Huong is certainly your gateway to some magnificent dive spots.
When I visited the island, finding accommodation upon arrival at Bai Lang village was easy, especially due to the pandemic situation. I didn't need to book in advance; I just wandered around until I discovered an available place. Renting a motorbike was also hassle-free - I simply asked around. I suggest booking ahead now as there are only a handful of small hotels and homestays on the island. Once everything is sorted, grab your towel and snorkeling gear, and relish this paradise.
When in Bai Lang, consider taking an early morning walk to the pier, it's fabulous to witness all the fishing boats returning with their catches. In a matter of minutes, the fish is unloaded, cleaned, and made ready for sale. The Bai Lang market is held down on the pier at 6 each morning, selling seafood, traditional broths, and it's the best place to stock up on all your tropical fruits for the day ahead.
Additionally, you can treat yourself to a jar of python fat, renowned for its healing properties and believed to promote youthful skin.
Don't expect to find many locals up early for your morning coffee, aside from the fishermen, those in the village are not early risers.
The crystal-clear waters of Cham are famous for being home to a wide array of vibrant coral reefs and many marine species, many of which are endangered. It is highly recommended to explore the Cham Museum as it enriches one's understanding of the island and offers a range of captivating exhibits.
Along the scenic road between the two villages, you can stop at some stunning beach spots, but it is the famous Bai Xep, and Bai Chong that are the most unforgettable beaches at Hon Lao. The picturesque Bai Xep beach also features a bar/cafe. There are snacks to enjoy, tropical cocktails, and sun lounges spread out on the powdery-white sand to enhance your sunset experience. My first visit there, seeing the bar deserted (covid days) and overrun by monkeys, but luckily there was still the option to do some beach camping, offering a memorable experience. I loved the evenings spent by the water's edge, admiring beautiful sunsets with vivid pink and orange.
Be sure to buy a licence ($5) from the ranger before you arrive on the beach, (you can stop along the way for this). But be warned, the monkeys are ridiculously brazen. Don't take your eyes off your belongings for a second. Even a dip in the ocean is enough time for them to open your tent, and clear it out!
The ride down to the smaller fishing village of Bai Huong is divine, enjoying the views of the island's coastline, and stopping for some snorkeling along the way.
We rode down to Bai Chong beach and found a small homestay to spend a few nights. The owner Yong was a great guy and offered us all a room for a few days, plus to take us out in his fishing boats over to Hon Tai Island for 2 days of snorkeling for $30 each. We were sorted!
Yong was happy to wait in his boat while we snorkeled around for hours.
Taking a siesta at each stop. My snorkeling experience at Hon Tai was amazing, with the water being exceptionally clear and teeming with marine life around the rocks.
This guy, who had quite the sense of humor, not only blessed us with visits to some amazing snorkeling spots, but he also took us to several of his favorite places to take great photos. He tells us, the last stop is his best, as he carefully lines up the boat for us to capture the best photo.
Secret entry @ Hon Tai Island
We returned to a Vietnamese lunch, a cold beer, joined by Yong's 101-year-old father. A brilliant few days of snorkeling around Cham.
Having your own motorcycle is certainly the best option, the roads around the island are too narrow for a vehicle, and this way you can explore the many undiscovered beaches. Only one side of the island is accessible to the public. The opposite side of the island has been serving as a military base for a long time, and access to that area is strictly prohibited.
When visiting the island, don't be alarmed if your routine journey from village to village is interrupted by an unexpected passenger. For years the little dog, Van, has been well known for hitching a ride with the tourists, as he does his travels around the island. I had the pleasure of his company for 2 days and I loved it. Many people in Hoi An have commented on having also chauffeured Van around. His owner Douc says he has done this for years and makes it home a few nights a week. This pup is definitely living his best life on Cham.
To discover Bai Ong beach, head in the opposite direction from Bai Lang and explore the roads around the Island. This secluded spot features a small beachfront cemetery, ancient statues, and lovely palm trees. Indulge in the freshest seafood, barbecued for you to enjoy while you unwind on the sand in this unique oasis.
A ride down to the island's two incredible shrines was a great experience and a must do when visiting Cham.
Hai Tang Pagoda is on the west side of Hon Lao, built in the 17th century this pagoda worshipped Bodhisattva (Buddha).
The stunning Than Yen Sao Pagoda at Bai Huong village was built in the 18th century and dedicated to Than Yen Sao.
The Cham islands are well known for the valuable nests of the Salanganes swallows. They are used to make the costly Chinese delicacy known as 'Birds nest soup'. These fascinating birds' nests can fetch up to $4000 US dollars per kilo. So of course, harvesting has emerged as a significant industry on the islands.
You may catch a glimpse of the Salanganes swallows busy making their nests by peering over the cliff edge, and if you are lucky, you might even have the chance to converse with some of the collectors. In Vietnamese, Yen Sao translates to 'birds' nest'.
Cham Island offers an excellent combination of nature, relaxation, adventure, and cultural immersion. The authorities have placed a big emphasis on sustainable tourism, ensuring that the natural environment is preserved, but still allowing visitors to experience its beauty. Each visit for me was different, and I found more things to do each time. And, you never know, you may get lucky and find yourself stuck there for an unexpected extra week or two!
The biggest adventure you can take,
is to live the life of your dreams.
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